It’s a common misconception that barking dog doesn’t bite’ but I still haven’t met anyone who hasn’t been convinced otherwise every time some dog has bared its fangs and snarled and yelped. Dogs and barking dogs, if you ask me, are two different species all together, and while the first can be petted and cuddled and given biscuits, and from the latter you can only run away.

Some dog behavior problems, like house-soiling, affect solely a dog’s owners. However, issues like escaping and excessive barking can lead to neighborhood disputes and violations of animal management ordinances. Therefore, barking dogs will become “people problems.” If your dog’s barking has created neighborhood tension, it’s a good idea to talk about it with your neighbors. It’s quite normal and reasonable for dogs to bark on occasion, even kids make lots of noise once they play outside.

However, constant barking for long periods of time is a sign that your dog behaviour has a downside that should be addressed. First you need to determine is, when and for how long your dog barks, and what’s causing him to bark. You might would like to try and do some detective work to obtain this information, especially if the barking happens once you’re not home. Ask your neighbors, drive or walk around the block and watch and listen for a while, or begin a recording with dogtek video camera when you leave for work.

Social Isolation/Frustration/Attention Seeking

Hopefully, you’ll be in a position to get that of the common issues discussed below is the reason behind your dog’s barking. Your dog might be barking because he’s bored and lonely, or if:

• He’s left alone for long periods of your time without opportunities for interaction with you.

• His surrounding is relatively barren, without playmates or toys.

• He’s a puppy or adolescent (under 3 years) and doesn’t have more outlets for his energy.

• He’s an active type of dog (just like the herding or sporting breeds) who desires a “job” to be happy.

What to do:

Expand your dog’s world and increase his “fun time” in the following ways that:

• Walk your dog daily – it’s sensible exercise for both of you.

• Teach your dog to fetch a ball or Frisbee and observe with him as typically as doable.

• Teach your dog a few commands or tricks and work on them every day for five to ten minutes.

• Take an obedience class along with your dog.

• Provide interesting toys to keep your dog busy when you’re not home. Rotating the toys makes them seem new and interesting.

• If your dog is barking to get your attention, make sure that he has sufficient time with you on a daily basis (petting,
grooming, playing, exercising), so he doesn’t need to resort to misbehaving to get your attention.

• Keep your dog inside when you’re unable to supervise him.

• Take your dog to your job sometimes, if possible.

• If you’re work very long hours, take him to a doggie day care or hire a dog walker or ask your neighbor to walk and/or play with him.

• Never give your dog attention while he’s barking. Ignore him till he stops for at least 3 seconds, then reward
with attention or treats.

Territorial/Protective Behavior

Your dog may be barking to guard his territory if:

• The barking happens in the presence of “intruders,” that could be the postman, children walking to high school and different dogs or neighbors in adjacent yards.

• Your dog’s posture while he’s barking appears threatening – tail held high and ears up and forward.

• You’ve inspired your dog to be alert to people and noises outside.

What to do:

• Teach your dog a “quiet” command. When he begins to bark at a passer-by, allow two or tree barks, then say “quiet” and interrupt his barking by shaking a can stuffed with pennies or squirting water at his mouth with a squirt gun. This will prevent barking momentarily. While he’s quiet, say “quiet” softly and pop a tasty treat into his mouth. Remember, the loud noise or squirt isn’t meant to punish him; rather it is to startle him into being quiet so you’ll be able to quickly reward him. If your dog is frightened by the noise or squirt gun, use another technique of interrupting his barking (throw a toy or ball toward him).

• Desensitize your dog to the stimulus that triggers the barking. Teach him that the folks he views as intruders are actually friends and that good things happen to him when these folks are around. Ask someone to walk by your yard, beginning with enough distance so that your dog isn’t barking, then reward him for quiet behavior. Use a very special food reward such as little pieces of cheese or meat. As the person gradually comes closer, still reward his quiet behavior. It might take many sessions before your dog stops barking on that person approach. When the person comes back without your dog barking, have them feed him a treat or throw a toy for him. In order for this technique to work, you’ll have to make sure that your dog doesn’t see other people outside between sessions.

• If your dog barks inside the house when you’re home, call him to you, have him obey a command, like “sit” or “down,” and reward him with praise and a treat.

• Don’t inadvertently encourage this kind of barking by enticing your dog to bark at things he hears or sees outside.

• Have your dog neutered (or spayed if your dog is a female) to decrease territorial behavior.

• Limit what your dog can see when you’re not home because it can induce you dog to bark..

Fears And Phobias

Your dog’s barking may be a fear response which occurs if:

• He’s exposed to loud noises, like thunderstorms, firecrackers or construction equipment.

• Your dog’s posture indicates fear – ears back, tail held low.

What to do:

• Identify what’s scares your dog and desensitize him to it (see our post, “How to Teach Your Dog Not to Be Scared of Fireworks and Firecrackers”).

• Mute noise from outside by leaving your dog in a basement or windowless bathroom and leave on a television, radio or a loud fan. Block your dog’s access to outside view, which may be cause a barking response, by closing curtains or doors.

Separation Anxiety

Your dog may be barking because of separation anxiety if:

• The barking occurs only after you’re gone and starts as soon as, or shortly after you are gone.

• Your dog displays other behaviors that mirror a strong attachment to you, like following you from room to room, frantic greetings or reacting anxiously to your preparations to leave.

• Your dog has recently experienced a amendment within the family’s schedule that leads to his being left alone often; a move to a new house; the death or loss of a family member or another family pet; or a period at an animal shelter or boarding kennel.

Recommendations:

• Separation anxiety might be resolved using counter-conditioning and desensitization techniques (see our post,
“Dog Separation Anxiety”).

How to Train Your Dog to Stop Barking

How to Train Your Dog to Stop Barking — powered by ehow

Train your dog to stop barking by training them to bark on command and ignoring off-command barking, or redirecting barking dogs with a toy or crate. Use cooked chicken or natural dog treats to reinforce dog training with tips from a professional dog trainer in this free video on dog obedience.

 

Bark Collars

Bark collars are specially designed to deliver an aversive whenever your dog barks. There are several totally different kinds of bark collars:

• Citronella Collar: This collar contains a reservoir of citronella solution that sprays towards your dog’s face every time he barks. A citronella collar is quite humane and will work with dogs that find the citronella smell and spray sound aversive. One possible disadvantage is that the collar contains a microphone, so the aversive is delivered in response to the sound of the bark. Therefore, different noises might set off the collar, causing your dog to be sprayed even if he didn’t bark. Also, some dogs can tell when the citronella reservoir is empty and will resume barking. You should purchase a citronella collar that is activated by you.

• Sonic Collar: This collar emits a high-frequency sound when your dog barks. Some are activated by the
noise of the bark, while others are activated by a handler. The rate of success for this type of collar is reported to be
quite low.

• Electric Shock Collar: I don’t recommend solely electric shock collar to manage your dog’s barking. The electric
shock is sometimes painful to your dog and many dogs can choose to endure the pain and continue barking. These collars are expensive and their success rate is terribly low.

The main downside of any bark collar is that it doesn’t address the underlying reason for the barking. You’ll be able to eliminate the barking, but symptomatic substitution could occur and your dog might begin digging, escaping or become damaging or even aggressive. The use of a citronella or sonic bark collar should go along with behavior modification primarily based on the reason for the barking. You should never use a bark collar on your dog if his barking is because of separation anxiety, fears or phobias, because punishment always makes those behaviors worse.

Barking dogs are in many ways like spoiled children and they need proper training to bring them back to the right track, but they also need to have fun and attention and loving, so make sure your training has all these components.

 

More reading:

Barking Dogs

Dogs will be dogs, and most dogs will bark, whine and howl at times – it’s only natural. Dogs vocalize to communicate with humans and to express themselves. Sometimes we want our dogs to bark in order to warn us about potential danger or protect us from harm.

Barking: How to Get Your Dog to Quiet Down

Try these techniques to stop your dog from barking. All of them can be successful, but don’t expect miracles overnight. The longer your dog has been practicing the barking behavior, the longer it will take for him to change his ways.

How to Prevent Dog Barking

Dog trainer Martin Deeley provides reasons why dogs bark and how to prevent dog barking and puppy barking through bark collars, dog training, dog exercise.

Why Dogs Bark: Stop Excessive Barking

When your dog is barking, say “Quiet” in a calm, firm voice. Wait until he stops barking, even if it’s just to take a breath, then praise him and give him a treat.

How do you prevent a dog from barking

I am a part time dog trainer and i think the best way to get a dog to stop barking is to train it to bark! It seems silly but it is totally effective! if you train the dog to …

There are numerous reasons that a dog might soil the house with urine and/or stools. Determining the specific reason is essential for developing a treatment program. Dogs that soil the home continuously or intermittently from the time they were first obtained may not have been properly house-trained. House-training is essential for success.

Why is my dog soiling the house?

Dogs that have been previously house-trained, may begin to soil the home for medical reasons or behavioral reasons. Assuming medical causes can be ruled out (see below), some of the behavioral causes can be a change in owner schedule, a change in housing or any change in the pet’s home that might lead to anxiety. For example, if you leave the dog alone for longer than the dog is accustomed, or significantly change the daily schedule or routine, your dog may begin to house-soil. Dogs that are exhibiting an increase in anxiety may begin to eliminate in the home, due primarily to a loss of control when anxious and not due to spite. Dogs that exhibit separation anxiety may soil the home, and require an intensive retraining program.

Why am I finding urination on upright objects?

Marking is urination on upright objects. It is most likely to occur on or near the odors, especially the urine, left by other dogs. The volume of urine is usually small. The problem is much more common in intact males, but some neutered males and spayed females will mark. Dogs may mark territory for a number of reasons including male hormonal influences, other dogs entering the property, moving to a new household or getting new furniture, or as a response to increased stress or anxiety.

Why does my dog urinate when he meets new people or I come home?

Two specific types of house-soiling, submissive and excitement urination, differ from most other forms of house-soiling in that the dog has little control over its elimination. Submissive urination occurs when a person approaches, reaches out, stands over or attempts to physically punish it. The dog not only urinates but may show other signs of submission such as ears back, retraction of lips, avoidance of eye contact, and cowering. Although this problem can be seen in dogs of any age, submissive urination is most commonly seen in puppies and young female dogs.

Owner intervention in the form of verbal reprimands or punishment, only serve to aggravate the problem by making the dog act more submissive which leads to further urination. Excitement urination is similar to submissive urination except the stimuli that lead to elimination are those that lead to excitement, particularly greeting and giving affection to the dog. These dogs may also be overly submissive, but not necessarily.

What medical problems could cause my dog to house-soil?

There are numerous medical problems that could cause or contribute to house-soiling, and these become increasingly more common as the dog ages. Medical problems that cause an increased frequency of urination such as bladder infections, bladder stones or crystals, or bladder tumors, those that cause a decrease in control or mobility such as neurological deterioration or arthritis, and those that cause an increase in urine volume (amount) such as kidney disease, liver disease, diabetes, or Cushing’s disease could all contribute to indoor elimination. Certain drugs such as steroids may also cause a dog to drink more and therefore urinate more. For dogs that defecate in the house, any condition that leads to more frequent defecation such as colitis, those that cause an increased volume of stool such as problems with absorption or lack of digestive enzymes, and those that affect the dog’s mobility or control such as arthritis or neurological deterioration must be ruled out. As dogs age, cognitive brain function decline, could also contribute to indoor elimination.

How can the cause of house-soiling be determined?

For dogs that are house-soiling a physical examination and medical history are first required. For most cases a urinalysis and general blood profile will also be needed, and additional tests such as radiographs and contrast studies, may be indicated based on the results. If there is any abnormality in elimination frequency or amount, stool color or consistency or urine odor, more comprehensive laboratory tests may be necessary. Once medical problems have been ruled out, it will then be necessary to determine if your dog was ever completely house-trained, whether there were changes in the pet’s household or schedule at the time the problem started, whether the dog is marking or eliminating on horizontal surfaces, whether or not the pet is exhibiting anxiety when the owners leave or when it is locked in its confinement area, and whether there is any evidence of submissive or excitement urination.

How can house-soiling be treated?

Training techniques for house-soiling dogs are virtually identical to those needed to housetrain a new puppy. However, even if house-soiling dogs are retrained to eliminate outdoors, indoor sites may continue to be used, since the odor, substrate, and learned habit may continue to attract the dog back to the location. In addition, dogs that eliminate indoors are in essence, performing a self rewarding behavior since they relieve themselves and do not perceive that the area they have used is inappropriate.

The key to effective housetraining is constant supervision. Prevent access to indoor elimination sites. Mildly correct the pet if it is eliminating in an inappropriate location. Redirect the dog to appropriate areas at times when elimination is necessary. Reinforce the acceptable behavior with lavish praise or food rewards when the dog eliminates in the designated area. If a word cue is used prior to each elimination-reward sequence, the dog may soon learn to eliminate on command. If you have trouble keeping the dog in sight leave a indoor leash attached to the dog. This leash can also be used to deter any elimination or pre-elimination behaviors (such as sniffing, circling or squatting) in the act and to direct the dog to the appropriate area without delay. Whenever you are not available to supervise, the dog should be housed in either a confinement area where it does not eliminate (such as a bedroom, crate, or pen), or in an area where elimination is allowed (such as a dog run, papered pen or room, or outdoors).

Your dog must never be allowed access to indoor sites where it has previously eliminated unless you are there to supervise. Access to these areas can be denied by closing doors, putting up barricades or booby trapping the areas. Odors that might attract the pet back to the area can be reduced or removed with commercial odor counteractants. Be certain to use a sufficient amount of the odor eliminator to reach everywhere that the urine has soaked into. The appeal of the substrate can be reduced by changing the surface covering (a plastic runner with nubs up, taking up the carpet, or electronic mats).

Feeding schedules can be regulated to improve owner control over the situation. After a dog eats, it will usually need to eliminate in 15-30 minutes. Dogs that eat free-choice often need to relieve themselves at a variety of times throughout the day. Dogs that eat one or two scheduled meals each day often void in a more predictable manner. Feeding a low-residue diet may also be of benefit because the dog often has less urgency to defecate and produces less stool. The dog that eliminates in its crate poses special problems. In these cases, crates may not be the ideal training aid. Since the purpose of the crate is to provide a safe, comfortable area for the dog to “curl up and relax”, it is not appropriate for dogs that are anxious about entering or staying in their crate.

While this can be overcome with training techniques, it may be better to confine these dogs to a small room such as a laundry room or kitchen where the dog is fed, or a bedroom where the dog sleeps. If the dog has reduced control due to its physical health, scheduling changes may need to be made. Some owners may be able to arrange their schedules so that more frequent trips to the elimination area can be provided. Alternatively a dog walker, or doggy day care, may need to be considered. If the owner cannot accommodate the dog’s decreased control, installing a doggy door, or providing a papered area may be necessary. When age related cognitive decline is suspected, a drug trial with l-deprenyl may be useful in conjunction with retraining techniques.

How can separation anxiety be treated?

To try and differentiate house-soiling from separation anxiety, it may be necessary for the owner to keep records of when the elimination occurs. If the elimination takes place when the owner is gone, or the dog is prevented from being near the owner, separation anxiety should be considered. If the house-soiling dog exhibits separation anxiety, treatment should be directed not only at re-establishing proper elimination habits (see above), but also at the underlying separation anxiety. Drug therapy may be useful in those cases where anxiety is a contributing factor. It should be noted that punishment at homecoming is not only useless for correcting a problem that has occurred during the owner’s absence, but also serves to add to the pet’s anxiety during future departures and homecomings.

How can submissive and excitement urination be treated?

For submissive urination, it is important that the owner and all visitors interact with the pet in a less dominant or threatening manner. The pet should be allowed to approach the owner. Kneeling down and speaking softly, rather than standing over the dog and petting the chest instead of the head, may help reduce submissive responses. Physical punishment and even the mildest verbal reprimands must be avoided. In fact, owners who attempt to punish the pet for urinating submissively will make things worse, since this intensifies fearful and submissive behavior. When greeting a very submissive dog, the owner may initially need to completely ignore it at greeting, even to the extent of avoiding eye contact. Counter-conditioning can be very helpful in controlling submissive urination. The dog is taught to perform a behavior that is not compatible with urinating, such as sitting for food or retrieving a toy when it greets someone. If the dog anticipates food or ball playing at each greeting, it is less likely to eliminate.

For excitement urination, those stimuli that initiate the behavior should be avoided. During greetings, owners and guests should refrain from eye contact, and verbal or physical contact until the pet calms down. Greetings should be very low key and words spoken in a low, calm tone. Counter-conditioning, distraction techniques and drug therapy might be useful. Caution must be taken to only reward appropriate competing behaviors (e.g. sit up and beg, go lie on your mat, retrieving a ball). Inappropriate use or timing of rewards might further excite the dog and serve as a reward for the excitement urination. The use of drugs to increase bladder sphincter tone might also be considered as an adjunct to behavior therapy, for refractory cases.

Another important aspect of treating over-excitement to visitors, is repeated presentations of the stimulus so that the dog learns the correct response. If visitors come only infrequently, the dog does not have the opportunity to learn a new behavior. By scheduling visitors to come, visit briefly, then leave by another door and re-enter, the dog may learn to be less excited and/or submissive with each entrance. Each time the person returns they are more familiar and less likely to stimulate the urination behavior. This allows the dog to “practice” the good behavior and reinforce the appropriate response.

How can marking be treated?

Neutering will eliminate male marking behavior in over 50% of dogs and is also recommended for female dogs that mark during estrus. Confining the pet so that it is unable to watch other dogs through windows in the home may be helpful. Urine residue must be removed from around doors, windows or other areas where stray dogs have been marking. The owner should give rewards to reinforce marking at outdoor sites where marking is permitted and marking should not be permitted anywhere else.

New upright objects that are brought into the home should not be placed on the floor until the pet is familiar with them. During retraining, the owner must closely supervise the pet and when it cannot be supervised it should be confined to its crate or bedroom area, away from areas that have been previously marked. It might also be possible to booby trap those areas that the pet might mark. If anxiety is an underlying factor in the marking behavior, then treatment of the anxiety with desensitization and counter-conditioning may also be helpful.

 

More reading:

Medical Causes of House Soiling in Dogs

It may be difficult or even impossible for a pet parent to distinguish between behaviorally caused house soiling and medically caused house soiling. For this reason, the first step in solving a house-soiling problem is to take your dog to a veterinarian for a thorough check-up and urinalysis.

Dog Behaviour Problems: Your dog’s House-soiling

We have recently rescued our dog who is a retired racing greyhound. she is 5 yrs. and has we believe settled into family life well. However she does urinate in the house sometimes and even while we are present occasionally. Can you offer any advice?

Dog behavior solutions: Housesoiling

Whether housebreaking a new puppy or resolving an existing problem in an older dog, the routine is the same: 1) prevent your dog from making mistakes, (i.e., eliminating in inappropriate places), 2) show your dog the appropriate place at the appropriate time, 3) reward your dog for using the appropriate toilet area, and above all 4) teach your dog the relevance of appropriate toilet etiquette.

What is a displacement behavior?

In some situations, an animal may be motivated to perform two or more behaviors that are in conflict with each other (e.g. approach-withdrawal, greeting but fear of being punished). The inability to perform both of the strongly motivated behaviors can lead to conflict resulting in the performance of a displacement behavior. This is usually a normal behavior shown at an inappropriate time, appearing out of context for the occasion. Grooming, yawning, circling, and vocalizations may be performed in stressful situations as displacement behaviors. By comparison, when an animal is interrupted or prevented from performing a highly motivated behavior (e.g. territorial aggression, fear aggression), it may be directed toward another person or animal. This is known as redirected behavior.

What is a stereotypy?

Stereotypes are repetitive behavior patterns without obvious goal or function. They are usually derived from normal behaviors. Stereotypic behaviors may be performed as components of displacement behaviors or compulsive disorders (see below). They can also be due to physiological changes such as might occur with a neurological disorder (circling, head bobbing). Examples of stereotypic behavior include pacing and excessive grooming.

What is a compulsive disorder?

When an animal is repeatedly placed in a state of conflict, displacement behaviors may begin to be manifested during any state of stress or arousal. Eventually, the behavior may become compulsive as the pet loses control over initiating or terminating it. The compulsive behavior may then occur in situations where the pet is minimally aroused.

Compulsive behaviors are often derived from normal behavior patterns but appear to be abnormal because they are
excessive, exceedingly intense, or performed out of context. Although some compulsive disorders are repetitive and may therefore be referred to as stereotypic (wool sucking, pacing, tail chasing), other compulsive disorders such as freezing or staring are not truly repetitive.

Since certain behaviors are more common in certain breeds, there may be a genetic predisposition to compulsive behaviors. For example, flank sucking (see below) is most commonly seen in Doberman pinschers, spinning (see below) in bull terriers, and fly chasing in miniature schnauzers.

Many compulsive or stereotypic behaviors arise spontaneously as a response to conflict or anxiety, but behaviors may become compulsive or stereotypic because they have been conditioned. For example, the owner who gives the young pet attention when it playfully chases its tail may reinforce the performance of the behavior. Owners that offer food or a toy in an effort to disrupt the behavior are also rewarding the very problem they wish to stop.

In each case it is essential to diagnose, rule out or treat any medical condition that might contribute to the problem. Some compulsive disorders have a component of self mutilation (e.g. acral lick dermatitis — see below, tail biting) that will require medical treatment. If the problem persists after all medical problems are diagnosed, treated, or ruled out, then behavioral modification, environmental manipulation and drug therapy may also be indicated.

In dogs, compulsive behaviors include acral lick dermatitis, flank sucking, pacing, circling, incessant or rhythmic barking, fly snapping or chasing unseen objects, freezing and staring, polydypsia, sucking, licking, or chewing on objects (or owners), tonguing or licking the air and other forms of self mutilation. In cats, excessive sucking and chewing, hunting and pouncing at unseen prey, running and chasing, paw shaking, freezing, excessive vocalization, self-directed aggression such as tail chasing or foot chewing, over- grooming or barbering of hair and possibly feline hyperesthesia (see below) may all be manifestations of conflict, and may become compulsive disorders in time.

How can compulsive disorders be treated?

Since some stereotypic or compulsive behaviors are initiated by underlying medical problems, a complete medical work- up is always the first step. Behaviors must be evaluated individually since not all require treatment. In fact, treatment may only be necessary if the behavior poses health risks to the animal or seriously annoys the owner. For some pets, the compulsive behavior may be the most practical and acceptable outlet for reducing stress or resolving conflict in their home environment.

For example, if flank sucking causes no physical harm, but occupies and calms the dog, then the compulsive behavior may be preferable to the use of calming drugs, or the development of other disorders (acral lick dermatitis, destructiveness, excessive vocalization). Reducing stress or finding methods of decreasing the sources of arousal and conflict are the first aspect of treatment that should be explored. Inconsistent training may lead to problems in the relationship between pet and owner. The environment should be closely examined to ensure that the pet has sufficient stimulation, particularly when the owners are frequently absent or otherwise occupied. This must include sufficient exercise, play, and social attention, as well as appropriate toys.

Obedience training may be helpful and the owner should be cautioned that inappropriate punishment could actually intensify the problem rather than correct it. Behavioral modification is most appropriate when owners can identify and predict those situations and times when compulsive behaviors are likely to arise. They can then initiate an alternative activity (before the compulsive behavior is overt) that is incompatible with the problem behavior, such as play, training, feeding, or providing a chew toy. Owners that have been rewarding the problem must remove all attention or rewards.

When the behavior is exhibited in the owners presence, inattention can be given by turning or walking away, or you could utilize some form of remote indirect punishment device, to ensure that there is no positive consequence for the behavior. These devices (ultrasonics, water gun, siren,) or leash and halter may also allow the owner to successfully interrupt the stereotypic behavior so that normal alternative behaviors can be re-established. Denying the pet access to the focus of its obsession has mixed results.

For example, a bandage or an Elizabethan collar may allow acral lick dermatitis or feline psychogenic alopecia to heal, but once the collar is removed, most cases relapse. In many cases, restricting access will worsen the problem by increasing anxiety or arousal. Instead, the underlying cause of the anxiety or conflict should be identified, removed or the animal desensitized to the stimulus.

Drug therapy may be extremely useful for pets with stereotypies just as it is in humans with obsessive-compulsive disorders. Since lowered serotonin and increased dopamine levels may be associated with some compulsive disorders, drugs that bring about a normalization of one or both of these neurotransmitters (e.g. clomipramine, fluoxetine) may be effective in the treatment of these disorders. A short course of therapy with anti-anxiety drugs may also be useful when the pet must be exposed to a potentially stressful or anxiety producing situation (new home, dramatic change in schedule, new baby). Antihistamines may also be useful to decrease anxiety and reduce itchiness in some self mutilation disorders.

What is Canine Acral Lick Dermatitis?

Acral lick dermatitis is when dogs repeatedly lick at specific sites on one or more of their limbs, often causing significant damage. Large breeds such as Doberman pinschers, Great Danes, German shepherds, Labrador retrievers, Golden retrievers and Irish setters are most commonly affected. Underlying medical abnormalities (e.g., arthritis, fracture, skin disorders) may initiate or contribute to the problem. The condition arises when the pet is repeatedly stressed or anxious, and this leads to excessive licking. The area becomes raw and itchy which further stimulates the dog to lick and chew.

With acral lick dermatitis, treatment must be directed at both the behavior disorder and the skin trauma. Therefore even with behavior therapy, treatment of the skin condition is also necessary. Medical therapy might consist of treatment with long term antibiotics, anti- inflammatory agents, and preventing access to the area until the lesion heals. Behavioral management and drug therapy is much the same as for other compulsive disorders (see above).

What is Canine flank sucking?

Flank sucking is when the dog takes a section of flank skin into its mouth and holds the position. Since the Doberman pinscher is most commonly affected, a hereditary component is likely. If the sucking does not cause significant lesions and does not interfere with the apparent health or welfare of the pet, flank sucking may be an acceptable “coping” mechanism. When the behavior does cause physical damage or becomes so compulsive as to contribute to other behavior problems (decreased eating, aggressive toward owners when approached during sucking) then treatment is necessary. Behavior management and drug therapy is the same as for other compulsive disorders (see above).

What is tail chasing or spinning in dogs?

Compulsive tail chasing may be a displacement or compulsive disorder in some dogs, but could also be a type of epileptic disorder, or due to physical discomfort or medical illness. Some cases such as those seen in bull terriers may exhibit a more intense spinning or whirling behavior.

Other concurrent behavior problems such as aggression have been reported in “spinning” bull terriers. In some cases, the problem may have started as play behavior that was conditioned (rewarded) by the owner. Once underlying medical problems are treated and an epileptic disorder has been ruled out, behavior and drug therapy is much the same as for other compulsive disorders (see above).

Every dog is unique, and you should choose behavior program that’s the best suited with your dog’s needs. Serious dog training will continue publishing solutions to your dog behavior problems.